Following the fine gauge rule

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It is still a growing sector, but successful circular knitting of fine specifications is much more than simply adding some needles.

February 22, 2021


This is the main message of the latest webinar organized by the Textile Machinery Branch of the German VDMA Machinery Association on February 17. Mayer & Cie. Wolfgang Müller, sales and service director of, emphasized that the sensitivity of small-size knitting requires specialized craftsmanship, and the key quality challenge is to avoid unsightly horizontal or vertical lines in the fabric structure. By some common mistakes.

Mayer & Cie. It is a fourth-generation family business established in 1904 with annual sales of approximately 100 million euros. It has established an investment portfolio of more than 50 different machine types and sells approximately 1,300 units per year. More than 99% of the products are exported to countries outside of Germany, and exported to more than 65 countries/regions.

In order to achieve the best fabric quality of high-end knitwear, high-quality yarns and machines are required, combined with in-depth process knowledge

Nowadays, fine specifications of knitwear are becoming more and more popular in technical applications such as underwear, basic clothing and sportswear (most notably swimwear), and filter cotton.

Standard fine braids are in the range of 36-44 specifications, and ultra-fine specifications suitable for niche applications can reach 60. Typical machine diameters are 30 inches and 34 inches. Polyester is the most commonly used fiber and is inexpensive, but it is recommended to use textured yarn in this process. Polyamide can provide a softer feel, but it is more expensive, and it is more critical to avoid streaks and streaks during processing. Cotton is the least affected by stripes and banner issues, but it is the most expensive commercial fiber and is not suitable for functional knitting. At the same time, adding elastomeric fibers requires more attention to precision processing.

Müller said: "For high-end knitwear to have the best fabric quality, it requires high-quality yarns and machines, combined with in-depth process knowledge." "Compromising yarns will definitely affect quality."

He added that the vertical lines in the fabric are mainly caused by the condition of the knitting elements (mainly needles and sinkers) as well as the cylinder, dial and sinker rings.

Avoid horizontal lines and stripes-unintentional, repetitive visual patterns of continuous stripes and stripes are usually parallel to the rows and columns of circular knitted fabrics-while involving careful selection of yarns and the process of yarn feeding, loop formation and forming head processing The attention in the middle, as well as the removal and winding.

"Horizontal lines are mainly caused by changes in the yarn tension in a single feeder," Müller emphasized. "The possible cause of this situation may be a damaged spool, which leads to uneven winding, electrostatic charge in the bobbin (especially filament yarn) or yarn crossing on the feed wheel. Any roughness must be avoided Or damaged yarn guide surface, and be aware that there may be different loop lengths on each feeder."

He added that the Barré effect is usually caused by the knitting heads that are not completely concentric or not completely level. There are many reasons, which are related to the accuracy of the machine and its optimal adjustment.

In order to obtain perfect results, Müller recommends using high-quality expanded polyester yarns while heating and setting the elastomeric yarns at low temperatures. The side creel without tube is the best choice, and it is recommended to use a bobbin tensioner or ring brake. It is also recommended to use a separate feed roller and active yarn tension control device.

In the loop forming area, it is recommended to use the temperature control unit of the knitting head, as well as the diagonal loop triangle adjustment device, the adjustable sinker triangle box, and, importantly, the ideal concentricity and horizontal knitting head. It is further recommended to use a combination of open thread take-up and multi-threaded roller and brush roller.

Roland Simmendinger, vice president of product development at Groz-Beckert, further emphasized the importance of high-precision knitting elements, thanks to his company's professional needles, cylindricity dials and sinker rings, and Thies sales manager Ralf H. Stange Outlines this. Other problems may be encountered in the dyeing of fine-gauge round fabrics.

Thies offers a range of dyeing machine options suitable for fine-gauge fabrics, and has a wealth of expertise in the necessary steps to avoid common problems such as creases, shifts, and solid color areas.

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