A Bit Of DIY Helps Cut Straight And Happy Threads | Hackaday

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Do the threads need to be cut into a hole? A tool called a

It is what you need and is as economical and effective as the manual operation shown here. The cutting head of the tap works by entering a pre-drilled hole, so it is important to maintain its importance in keeping the tool straight. It’s one thing to make a few holes with a stable hand and a precisely calibrated eyeball, but when you need to make a lot of holes, it’s worth a little help.

Common tools that help keep the faucet straight and gently press down are called

, But [Tony] has many M4 holes to choose from, and there is no time to order an M4 hole and wait for it to arrive. instead,

. result? Manually operated taps, but must be orthogonal to the workpiece, which makes the work of cutting a large number of threads easier.

Tapping is not just metal. It is also possible to cut the thread into wood, and it must be

Use threaded rods or lag screws. Of course, the need for tapping holes can be avoided

Instead, use the right materials.

Even simpler is the "benchmark". A plank or sheet of metal with a vertical hole of the diameter of the tap. For the case where there are not too many holes in the flat surface, the simplest and cheapest method. You can buy ready-made ones. You can make them. No drill press is required. If you are a skilled and adventurous person, just plug the faucet into the cordless drill and tap it. The tap will find its way. sometimes. most. often. If the tap is large enough, it will not break, and the tap is so small that the drill bit can turn it.

This is almost the same. I always make the tap guide by clamping an old hexagon head bolt on a lathe to smooth the head and drill out the size of the tap shank. These days it's OpenSCAD: put the tall cylinder on the disc, subtract a hole on both, then slice it, and print it.

There is a chuck in the picture. No adapter required

To be precise, this is what I did the last time I had to tap a hole

^This...can someone explain why he didn't just simply clamp the drill bit in the drill press?

It is not easy to turn the faucet by hand while holding it in the drill press, especially when you need to push the sleeve shaft down towards the spring with one hand.

If you just hold the hood of the chuck and twist it, it will loosen the chuck and start.

Moreover, it is very difficult to hit the power supply with a bench drill, and they often do not stop quickly enough.

I have never had trouble, and I have done a lot of things. If this tool will definitely make it easier for you, please build one and use it. Different people accomplish the same task in different ways. I usually only use the drill press to get in about one-eighth, between 3 and 5 turns, and then switch to a more traditional tap handle. I just want to make sure that I can start straight away.

The end of the tap is square and will not be centered in the drill chuck.

@rob thanks... my faucet has a square top, but a round handle, which fits easily into the chuck.

Thank you @andy... This is the most meaningful... I assume it is a hard tap, but with a light press, you can't simply set the depth and keep rotating like a drill.

The calf will never become round, otherwise it will be restrained.

Inexpensive taps are oval in shape with opposite cutting surfaces and will not be centered in the chuck.

Better blades have three surfaces cut at 120 degree angles and may be centered.

The cutting surface of some taps spirally rotates at 120 degrees along the shank and is circular.

There are many plate-type or plate-type faucets that are not mentioned here, and blind-hole faucets are different.

The tap shank is perfectly round. There is no difficulty holding them in the chuck (although they are smooth, hard and easy to slip).

The cutting edge is released, so the part is not round, but the handle is round with a square extension at the end.

Tapping chucks usually hold the handle to center the tap, and there is an extra part at the end to hold the square to prevent slippage. Sometimes it is thread-driven (the tapping head has a rubber flexible chuck), but there are also ER chucks with a square at the back, which can be used for rigid tapping on CNC machine tools.

I made a video on how to perform custom tapping, and how to get the appropriate relief and cutting angle:

Andy above is correct. Rob is completely wrong.

I am a mold maker, and I'm sure I know taps better than most people.

There are actually many types of taps, but with the exception of the small square shank at the end of the main shank, the shank is always round.

I recently discovered a truly unique antique faucet, only used in a watch factory 120 years ago. Their cross-section is actually triangular and very tapered-only very small for the smallest thread in the balance wheel. Consider something the size of a sewing needle.

Hammel Riglander and Bergeon’s standard watchmaking taps usually come in 3 sets: first, a tap, then the most cut intermediate tap, and then a third finishing tap, which processes the thread to the final size, usually Shaped taps. , I believe.

I found these things from someone who might only supply them in the United States, and he had the equipment that was originally used to make them.

There are some crazy things in the world of taps that haven't even really gotten into shape taps, and they work differently from cutting taps.

Cheap faucets have no handle, as you said. They only have a square part and a cutting head.

The cutting position is not round.

The terminology is different in different countries, but when I mention binding, I hope people will realize that I am working on the cutting part of the tap.

I am really cheap, so I have many cheap faucets, but I have never seen it like you described.

Can you provide a link to the example? I'm curious.

Most faucet handles I have seen have a conical center at the top. Just put a center in the drill chuck, press down with the drill press shank, and then turn the tap shank.

Exactly. This is something I have done many times. This is why the tapered center hole is there!

What is needed is not some new gadgets, but just knowledge.

Now, power tapping is another matter entirely.

! me too. On the metal lathe, I made a pointed rod with a rod that rests on the jaw tip of the drill chuck. To drill, replace the drill bit with a pointed rod. Insert the end of the tap into the hole and pull the sleeve shank to place the tip on the top of the tap shank. Turn the faucet handle while pulling the main shaft handle downward.

Simple, simple, the faucet will be completely straight, because nothing is moved after drilling.

Turn the faucet handle while pulling the main shaft handle downward.

I have a

I fixed the fishing weight (about one kilogram) on the spindle handle with a string and a hook.

In addition, as mentioned earlier, it is troublesome to turn the chuck by hand because it becomes loose. I have an older belt-driven press. I open the top, remove the belt, and turn the pulley manually. This has some mechanical advantages over rotating the chuck.

What hasn't been mentioned is oil-use it! I installed a custom extruder oil tank on the press-with a flexible tube that can be easily positioned. I use a concentric "choke wire" to operate the oiler from the foot pedal, so I can free up my hands. This is very convenient for tapping, but

It is very suitable for light milling with cross teeth, even for simple drilling.

My general procedure is to turn the pulley until a certain level of resistance is felt, then back a quarter of a turn to remove the chips, and then repeat until it is complete. If you are just turning and will not occasionally reverse, you must disconnect the faucet, especially the smaller faucet.

I usually use power tapping.

I have installed a frequency converter (with a 1.5kW motor!) in the factory and have adjusted the frequency converter to have low torque at low RPM (so I also adjusted the torque compensation).

Therefore, I just put a tap on the chuck and adjust the frequency/rpm until the motor has enough torque to cut the thread. I can at least dig it into the blind hole of the M5. When the tap hits the bottom, the tap stops because the torque is not enough to cut the tap.

Thank you!

Power tapping is obviously feasible, but at small intervals, in any hard material (such as tool steel) or tapping on stickies (Inconel) or things that are easy to harden (that is, Inconel) ), none of them work well.

I would never do this when it is a blind hole, otherwise you do risk bottoming and stripping, or worse, breaking the screw hole.

It can absorb thicker metal plates, but can be used well for wood and plastics. Brass also.

I think the terminology here is wrong. The tool shown is a tap wrench.

"Tapping" is the actual cutting edge.

This is a kind of Americanism, just like what Americans call drill drills.

I am an American, and I just treat it as a lazy editor.

We call these T-shaped percussion wrenches in the industry

I would call it a tap wrench.

This morning, I just worked on the drill press for 4 to 40 seconds, and did my usual job: just 5 seconds of one-handed operation, it is easy to remove the drive belt on the drill press.

Therefore, I placed the faucet in the chuck, removed the belt, and then rotated the top pulley by hand. Of course, this work is done on a vise, so I have free time to prepare the quill. Easy, straight, and super fast to complete. The xy table can also make the arrangement very fast.

Place the percussion screwdriver (wrench) on the chuck on the slide plate to loosen the spindle feed needle so that you can hold the workpiece with your other hand. This makes it possible to move work multiple times faster.

This is how I often tap the machine, or if on the bridge port, I set the spindle to neutral.

4-40 is the method that I only start the first few threads on the machine, and then usually use a light strike wrench to manually complete the cutting and apply a lot of cutting oil. That is a small, thin line, I personally think that those that require a hand feel to be safely completed from the machine, which will make you lose a lot of sensitivity.

The spring reversible tapped follower made by Fisher is even simpler than this-only the spring is tight and the opposite end is conical.

Place the faucet wrench on the faucet, then place the spring-loaded point on the back of the faucet (if the end of the small cone-shaped faucet is on the ground instead of the center point, place it on the cone), and place the drill pipe toward the Push down onto the drill press, and then rotate the tap wrench.

The same result-it can be purchased for $10, which is easier to make from scratch than this style. But you also need a normal tap wrench.

The picture shows a ratchet wrench, right? What about reversing and clearing schraf? When using a small faucet, I use a wireless drive, and I usually don’t try to use this method all when reversing. There is no result of broken tap, and it is very fast. Using Ni Cad battery drill for a dime, you can fix a drill bit to the sliding arm and make a bit-on-bit/tapping tool. The pedals should also be fed in.

"It must be orthogonal to the workpiece"? Orthogonal has a very broad definition. How about "normal bed"? Suppose it is stepped on to the normal position of the bed. Maybe just "must be repeatable" is a better description. I feel that orthogonality is at the tipping point of becoming the next "use case", so it makes no sense.

Let's take a look at "pre-drilling". what is that? Do you buy them by dozen or by weight? Pre-drilling should be an operation performed before drilling. Maybe the center punch. Or align the drill bit. If not, how is it different from drilling? Is it just redundant like "What you want to do is what you want to do" in many Youtube tutorials? "You want to pre-drill a hole in order to drill a hole where you want to drill a hole"?

there!

> You can also cut the thread into wood

I like to tap hardwood (and then use brass bolts with various heads). It is more difficult to pull out than a screw.

Try to use a pre-drill one or two sizes smaller than the recommended tapping size in the table.

The wood also gets hot. And you still have to log out regularly. Beware of breaking the faucet.

interesting.

A few days ago, Adam Savage did this for 40 minutes.

Adam Savage just wants to keep the taps aligned...

This is a convulsive, extremely painful video, but the content is great.

My grandpa just puts the tap into the drill chuck and then pulls the drill press chuck with it.

Hi everyone-if I can throw 2 cents in. . .

Back in November 2008, I won the Hacked Gadgets Workbench home studio competition on Makezine. This is the link.

The reason I say this is because if you look a little more than the 1/2 direction mark (search attachment -B-), you will read some of the skills I have learned in tapping over the years (12-year-old mechanical Teacher + 24 years of CNC trade school teacher). Basically, only buy machine taps (not manual taps), use the taps to make the taps square (as described by Bob in the first article), buy ratchet tap handles (I have large and small handles), use Lubricant, etc. In addition, to keep things organized, I used a transparent end mill box (transparent tube with end cap) to hold the taps, tap drills, gap drills, and exemplary nuts and bolts. In this way, you don't have to waste time looking for things.

The link in the reference is broken. You can use a self-made EDM machine to remove the broken taps, perhaps like this:

Thank you for visiting your store. For your resource links, it is worth mentioning that McMaster-Carr, whose website is

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